Hagedorn: “I’ve Not Had a Finer Steak Frites Than at J. Hollinger’s”

The quality and diversity of the area’s restaurant scene continue to earn attention and accolades from local and national food media.

In his review of downtown Silver Spring newcomer J. Hollinger’s Waterman’s Chophouse, published Tuesday, Bethesda Magazine food critic David Hagedorn declared the restaurant’s steak frites as the best he’s ever eaten:

I’ve not had a finer steak frites than at J. Hollinger’s, which opened in the Lee Building in May. My knife, unlike with chewier cuts often used for the dish (such as hanger, flat iron or flank), glides effortlessly through the meat, whose umami beefiness melds beautifully with the sweetness and pungency of its garlic-parsley butter. Chef John Manolatos, George’s brother, gets the crispy frites right, too, because he makes them in-house instead of shortcutting with frozen fries. (He soaks the fries in water for two days, blots them dry and par-cooks them in 325-degree canola oil. Then they’re fried to order at 350 degrees to crisp them.)

Owned by Silver Spring resident Jerry Hollinger of The Hollinger Group (The Daily DishThe Dish and Dram), J. Hollinger’s Waterman’s Chophouse opened on May 10 in the former home of The Classics at 8606 Colesville Rd. in downtown Silver Spring. John Manolatos, Cashion’s Eat Place alum and brother of general manager George Manolatos, has taken over as executive chef after the departure of Michelin-starred chef Mike Ellis.

Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema recently praised J. Hollinger’s, noting that the restaurant “serves up accessible luxury”, and Eater D.C. recently added the restaurant to their “15 Hottest New Restaurants Around D.C.” list.

J. Hollinger’s added a lunch menu this month, including the aforementioned steak frites, chophouse burger, soft shell crab (also available as a sandwich), pasta arrabbiata, chilled seafood, and gazpacho, among other items.

Photo: J. Hollinger’s / Facebook

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